the random musings of a crazed mom & artist
{ Category Archives }
I *love* the cover on this booklet- it’s from 1936 and has “fashions of the future”. In 6 years Minerva would be showcasing staple sweaters that could be knit by hand, thereby freeing up machinery and the workforce for the war effort.
This was part of yesterdays dead people stuff sale.
It is Marked Set. No. 3
Copyright 1912 by Jenny Brooks Co.
Salem, Mass.
I could not find much on a google search (except for one or two hits of people selling pdf files).
As always, click on the image for a larger version
I’ve scanned and uploaded the Huntington Sweater from the 1915 Fleisher’s Knitting and Crochet Manual.
It is available both as pictures that are printable and as a pdf (well once it finally uploads to the server).
As far as actual knitting goes- slowly working on the husband’s scarf, but taking a break and working on my first toes up socks… well both first toes up and doing two at once. Yup, trying to break the second sock denial that most knitters seem to got through.
I have been totally sucked into the Vintage Sewing Wiki. I should be scanning the patterns I already have and posting them to my various stores… but no, I’m wandering the wiki and adding patterns there that aren’t already there.
On the plus side, did make a sale over at Specialist Auctions… now if only I had printer ink (glares at Walgreens).
Well sort of- the two vintage scarf patterns are really crochet.
I’ve added a vintage pattern from 1917 for knitted and crochet items for soldiers.
Two vintage scarf patterns:
stitch pattern:
Not a lot to say about this pattern.
It dates from 1947 and is a hostess apron.
Unprinted.
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MISSES’ AND WOMEN’S BLOUSE: The blouse has an underarm gusset and tiny puffed sleeves. In Styles 1 and 3, ribbon is drawn through the neckline casing and elastic trhough the sleeve casing. In style 2, embroidered edging of the sleeve and neck edges serves as casing. The blouse may be worn off the shoulders. Top-stitched braid trims style 3.
Size 20
Bust 38″
Waist 32″
Finished Back Length from Base of Neck to Hem of Blouse:Â 22-5/8″.
Pattern is from the transitional time between unprinted patterns that were cut to size, to the current uncut printed patterns. Patterns were factory cut to exact size with details printed on each pattern piece.
Copyright 1945, Simplicity Pattern Company, New York 16.
Condition of the envelope is poor to fair. The four pieces that make up the blouse are intact and look like they have never been used.
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by Laurie Kynaston
Laurie sells vintage knitting patterns, and offers free knitting patterns like this one, on her website at Vintageknits.com
| I enjoy knitting lace, and found these 3 patterns in a copy of “How to Use Florence Knitting Silk”, published in 1886 by the Nonotuck Silk Co. of Florence, Mass.There was a flourishing silk industry in Massachusetts during the latter half of the 1800’s, and the Florence Knitting Silk book was reprinted a number of times (there’s a wonderful history of the United States silk industry in a back issue of “Piecework” magazine, along with a pattern for a pair of silk mittens, which were also adapted from this book).
If you would like to try knitting these edgings, I suggest using a fine weight yarn and fairly fine needles (I used some 100% cotton from the stash, it was between fingering and sport weight, and used #4 US needles–this resulted in a heavier lace than I would normally make, but shows up nicely in the pictures. Fingering weight yarn and smaller needles would make a beautiful lacy edging). The first two patterns would be beautiful edgings for shawls or blankets; the third edging makes a nice insert. |
Pattern #1 (leafy lace edging):
Cast on 26 stitches.
Row 1: k2, yo, k1, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, skp, p1, k2tog, k1, p1, k1, skp, p1, k2tog, k1, yo, k1, yo twice, k1, yo twice, k1.
Row 2: K2, p1, k2, p1, k1, p3, k1, p2, k1, p2, k1, p3, k8.
Row 3: k2, yo, k1, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, yo, skp, p1, k2tog, p1, skp, p1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo k7.
Row 4: bind off 4, k2, p4, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p4, k8.
Row 5: k2, yo, k1, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k1, yo, k1, yo, k3, yo, sl 1, k2tog, psso, p1, sl 1, k2tog, psso, yo, k3, yo, k1, yo twice, k1, yo twice, k1.
Row 6: k2, p1, k2, p1, k1, p6, k1, p6, k8.
Row 7: k2, yo, k1, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k1, yo, k1, yo, k5, yo, sl 1, k2tog, psso, yo, k5, yo, k7.
Row 8: Bind off 4, k2, p15, k8.
Repeat these 8 rows for pattern.
Pattern #2 (“S” curve edging)
Cast on 15 stitches. Knit 1 row.
Row 1: k2, yo, k1, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k1, yo, k4, yo twice, k2tog, k2.
Row 2: yo, p2tog, k2, p1, k11.
Row 3: k2, yo, k1, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k1, yo, k2, k2tog, yo twice, k2, yo twice, k3.
Row 4: yo, p2tog, k2, p1, k2tog, k1, p1, k10.
Row 5: k2, yo, k1, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k1,yo, k2, k2tog, yo twice, k2tog, k2, yo twice, k3.
Row 6: yo, p2tog, k2tog, p1, k2, k2tog, p1, k2tog, k8.
Row 7: k2, yo, k1, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k1, yo, k3, yo twice, (k2tog) twice, yo twice, k3.
Row 8: yo, p2tog, k2tog, p1, k2tog, k1, p1, k2tog, k8.
Row 9: k2, yo, k1, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k1, yo, k4, yo twice, k2tog, yo twice, k3.
Row 10: yo, p2tog, k2tog, p1, k2tog, p1, k2tog, k9.
Row 11: k2, yo, k1, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k1, yo, k5, yo twice, k2tog, k2.
Row 12: yo, p2tog, k2tog, p1, k2tog, k10.
Repeat rows 1-12 for pattern.
Pattern #3 (Insert):
Cast on 15 stitches, knit 1 row.
Row 1: k2, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, skp, yo, k1, k2tog, yo, k2.
Row 2 and all even rows: *k3, p3, repeat from *, end k3.
Row 3: k2, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, skp, yo, k1, k2tog, yo, k2.
Row 5: k2, yo, k2tog, k2, yo, k3tog, yo, k2, k2tog, yo, k2.
Row 7: k2, yo, (k2tog) twice, yo, k3, yo, (k2tog) twice, yo, k2.
Row 9: k2, yo, k2tog, k1, yo, k2tog, k1, skp, yo, k1, k2tog, yo, k2.
Repeat rows 1-10 for pattern.
ABBREVIATIONS:
k: knit
p: purl
yo: yarn over
k2tog: knit 2 stitches together
p2tog: purl 2 stitches together
skp: slip one, knit one, pass slipped stitch over knit stitch
sl 1-k2tog-psso is a decrease worked as follows:
sl 1: slip one stitch,
k2tog: knit next 2 stitches together,
psso: pass slipped stitch over the 2 stitches knit together
Please let me know if you encounter any errors in my directions! I make every effort to type carefully, but I’m not perfect…
QUESTIONS? EMAIL ME at: lavs@vintageknits.com
VINTAGE KNITS HOME PAGEVINTAGE PATTERNS HOME PAGE
LACE PATTERNS FROM 1886 contributed by Laurie Kynaston; http://www.vintageknits.com. You may share this pattern on your on-line knitting pattern collections or in newsletters, providing this notice remains attached. (I would appreciate notification if you use this pattern!) This pattern is intended for personal use, or for charitable donations/sale. Please contact me at lavs@vintageknits.com for permission to include this pattern in any written collection or to use it for commercial purposes,
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Here’s an easy striped mitten knitting pattern for holiday gifts!
by Laurie Kynaston
Laurie sells vintage knitting patterns, and offers free knitting patterns like this one, on her website at Vintageknits.com
| Easy Striped Mittens to Knit Materials You Need: |
|
1 skein each 2 colors of your choice (I used Blue Boy #79 and Sun Yellow #13). You can easily get 2 pairs of mittens from the 2 skeins of yarn. |
GAUGE: 4 1/2 sts=1″ on #6 needles.SIZE: My pair will fit an average size adult hand comfortably (I like my mittens to be a bit roomy). Claudia says to subtract 6 stitches for a child’s size & to add 6 stitches for a huge adult hand. |
| Easy Knitted Striped Mittens Pattern Instructions: |
Stripe Pattern: Work 4 rounds in Color #1, 4 rounds in Color #2, repeat.
Cuff:
With #4 needles and Color #1 (Blue Boy in my pair), cast on 32 stitches. Join and work in knit 1, purl 1 ribbing in the round, placing a stitch marker at beg of round. Work in stripes (switching colors every 5th round) until cuff measures 3″ or desired length–my mittens have 3 blue stripes and 2 yellow stripes, and ended after the 4th round of the blue stripe.
Next round: Continue working in stripe pattern as established!! Switch to #6 needles; *knit 8, make 1 st*, repeat around: 36 stitches (I “make one” by picking up the bar between stitches and knitting into the back of it. Makes a nice nearly invisible increase).
Next round: Knit 1, place 2nd marker, knit around.
Thumb Gusset:
Round 1: slip 1st marker, make 1 stitch, knit 1, make 1 stitch, slip 2nd marker, knit around (38 stitches).
Round 2: knit around.
Repeat rounds 1 and 2 until there are 13 stitches between the 2 markers/48 stitches total (your 2nd increase round will be: slip 1st marker, make 1 stitch, knit 3 stitches, make 1 stitch, slip 2nd marker; 3rd inc round will be: slip 1st marker, make 1 stitch, knit 5 stitches, make 1 stitch, slip 2nd marker, etc).
Hand:
Knit across 13 gusset stitches, then slip them onto a stitch holder or piece of waste yarn. Continue knitting around on remaining stitches, increase 1 stitch at end of round, placing ‘beginning of the round’ marker after the increased stitch: 36 stitches. Continue working in the round and in stripe pattern as established for another 2 1/2″ (my mitten has 2 more yellow stripes & 2 more blue stripes above the thumb gusset), then work in color #2 (yellow) only for remainder of mitten. Work until mitten is long enough to clear your little finger (4″ above the thumb gusset in my case).
Top Decrease:
Round 1: *knit 4, knit 2 together*; repeat around: 30 sts.
Round 2: knit
Round 3: *knit 3, knit 2 together*; repeat round: 24 sts.
Round 4: knit
Round 5: *knit 2, knit 2 together*; repeat around: 18 sts.
Round 6: knit
Round 7: *knit 1, knit 2 together*; repeat around: 12 sts.
Round 8: knit
Round 9: *knit 2 together*; repeat around: 6 sts (Note: I like to use a #4 needle for the last decrease round, as it helps alleviate those large ‘loops’ when you pull the final 6 sts. together).
Cut yarn, leaving a 12″ tail; with a darning needle, run the yarn through the remaining 6 stitches and pull tight. Weave in end.
Thumb:
Worked with Color 2 (yellow). Pick up all stitches on thumb holder, using #6 needles, arranging the stitches around the needles & picking up 3 stitches across the ‘bridge’ where you cast on the stitch when starting the hand–16 stitches. Join work, placing marker if desired to note beginning of round.
Round 1: knit around (I like to knit into the back of those 3 picked up stitches on the 1st round to tighten them up and avoid a hole). Continue knitting around until thumb measures 2 3/4″ or desired length (should clear the top of your thumb nail). Next round: *knit 2 together*, repeat around–8 stitches remaining. Close as for top of mitten. Weave in all ends.
“Striped Mittens” pattern © 2000 By Laurie Kynaston; http://www.vintageknits.com. You may share this pattern on your on-line knitting pattern collections or in newsletters, providing this notice remains attached. (I would appreciate notification if you use this pattern!) This pattern is intended for personal use, or for charitable donations/sale. Please contact me at lavs@vintageknits.comt for permission to include this pattern in any written collection or to use it for commercial purposes.
